GEnough to parade in the randy buildings, the coffeehouse culture and a small Central Square … This town at the end of the Adriatic is called “Little Vienna of the Sea”. Since the 14th century, when it asked the House of Habsburg for protection from the greedy access of Venice, Trieste has spent more time as an Austrian city than an Italian city. Impressive faces were built during its heyday as the main port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and even today the Metal-Europeans who come here on vacation can’t help but feel at home.
There’s little shipping business left – on the waterfront behind that huge square, Piazza Unità d’Italia, cruise ships gently look at the moving masts of small fun yachts – but what’s left reveals another Austrian heritage. For 300 years, Trieste has been home to large quantities of Italian green (arosted) coffee beans, and it is rumored that Triestini drinks twice as much as his countrymen. They definitely like to delay it, contrary to the country’s standup espresso habit. Throughout the day you will see people chatting on the top Head to b (A mini cappuccino in a glass) The area in central Borgo Teresiano, during whose reign many of its pedestrian streets and squares were built, is named after the Queen.
But it’s not all Straddle and Vince Waltz; It is a place whose long and varied history begins at the foot of its mountain, where the ruins of a Roman amphitheater indicate the importance of this coast to Julius Caesar. A steep climb through the old city leads to the medieval stone castle and cathedral, and the view over the roof is reminiscent of the unusual religious freedom that Trieste enjoyed before World War I: the multi-domed domes of one of Europe’s largest synagogues. Golden mosaic of the Serbian Orthodox Church, and white towers of the Greek.
That multiculturalism is finally re-emerging: Slovenia’s entry into the EU is helping to reunite the Slovenian-speaking community, which was a major part of the city’s population before fascism, and which still dominates the Karst Plateau without seeing the city. Due to the wine, ham and cheese produced here, these green limestone hills have become a food destination in their own right, and they show their presence in the buzzing wine bars of Trieste during the operative hours.
The streets of this commercial city offer great shopping, and the university’s presence has created a strong market for rare and second-hand books. The former ghetto, behind the Piazza della Borsa, hosts an amazing collection of antique shops, while the once-seeded streets of Cavana’s historic red light district (repeated by James Joyce a certain day) are filled with bars, restaurants and restaurants. Walking in the evening.
Where to eat and drink
Of coffeehouses, Caffè Degli Specchi is the most famous, spread Magisterialy in Piazza Unità, where customers are waiting for its red rope to move forward.. Its owners, the Fagioto family, have two worth seeing – the cafe Tommaseo by the sea, which hosts regular concerts, and Pasticceria La Bomboniera, by the Canal Grande, which showcases a hearty selection of cakes, pastries and chocolates. And if you think the rich interior of the Antico Caffè Torinese looks like an early ocean liner, that’s because it was the designer’s day job. During the day it sells patties presnitz – Spiral Tristine pastry filled with nuts, currants and rum – and like brooches Gripper; At night it is a beautiful backdrop for cocktails.
For more adequate food, Banquet Restaurants still served mid-morning meals after work by fishermen and workers. Along with traditional sausage and boiled pork dishes, Buffet da Ciora Rosa (which celebrated its 100th anniversary last year) also has meatless classics, from gnocchi filled with stewed cuttlefish or plums. To whom, Local bean soup. Hostaria Malcanton, a few steps from Piazza Unità, specializes in fish and fried seafood in perfection, or in mouth watering pasta dishes with seasonal vegetables. Ristorante Ai Fiori has a more experimental feel, with flavor menus including barbecue sauce, creamy peas and octopus with taro chips.
You wouldn’t expect a “sports bar” to be the best place in town for wine, but the cavernous interior of Austria da Marino is a comfortable place to sample more than 700 species, including rugby reminiscences. From Glera grapes, also known as Proseco, from a nearby village of the same name. Farms and vineyards in the Karst Hills to the east of the city are allowed to sell their produce directly from their gates for a few weeks each year. These establishments are called osmizeAnd the website osmize.com shows up to be open any day.
Trieste is proud of his literary connections – as well as poets and novelists from Joyce, Rilke to Stendhal – who spend time here – and stay at the Salon-style Conversation Caf. San Marco, whose high ceilings have nurtured high views since 1914. Its magnificent bookstore is as much a attraction as the food in its restaurant, and it is a meeting place for local intellectuals, visiting professors and more, presided over by the charismatic owner Alexandros Delithanasis. .
Trieste’s most respected writers are Umberto Saba, Italo Svevo, and Svevo’s best friend, Joyce, who lived, drank, and wrote on both sides of World War I. Boards across the city housed Joyce’s various residences (she was repeatedly evicted for failing to pay rent) and an increasingly impressive Bloomsday Festival is celebrated every June – in 2022 it runs for seven days (June 12-18), including readings, movies. Performance and even Irish breakfast. Meanwhile, Trieste’s new literary museum will open later this year in the newly renovated city library, including the city’s Joyce and Svevo collections.
For a taste of the lesser racquets of life, the Museo Revoltella is a fin de siecle collection of art and works of art exhibited by the Society Pasquale Revoltella in the city and in his old house, or the Teatro Verdi, the city’s opera house and a symbol of its capitalist charm. .
To the north of the center, behind the train station, is the suburb of Barclays, whose waterfront doubles as Trieste’s beach. Don’t be fooled, there is no sign of sand – whatever is not stone is concrete. That doesn’t stop Triestini from coming here every time, for a morning dip, lunch time for a tanning session or a post-workout chillout.
Take a shower It is an integral part of the local culture and a favorite place for everyone to dive. There is a pine grove with its rare shade, a Mouse (Semi-circular platforms above the prom), and also a popular nudist stretch. In October, Trieste’s annual regatta, the Barclana, gathers more than a thousand boats and scatter along the seafront.
The Miramare Palace, built in 1860 by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, brother of the Austrian emperor, has white turrets. He lived with his Belgian wife, Charlotte, in his romantic dream home for three years before being executed in Mexico. Today, indoor and extensive gardens are distinctly preserved. The 54-acre park is one of Trieste’s finest public spaces, open every day and easily accessible by bus. The waters around the castle are a marine reserve protected by WWF, which offers guided snorkeling and scuba diving tours.
Where to live
Trieste’s architecture offers its hotels a definite hotspot. Its buildings were built to inspire amazement, not spontaneity: the Double Tree opened in 2020 in the former insurance building is a perfect example, with exterior-shaped staircases, high ceilings, marble columns and classical statues. The modern hotel on the corner (only double the room 128) offers a 19th-century palazzo-style boutique experience created by Gregorio Ananian, a leading philanthropist in the city. Its lobby bar (open to the public) has a coveted Mid-Century experience, and guests wake up each morning to a hearty Proust, Elliott or other 20th-century genius painting on their rooftops.
Travel Pass Offered by Interrail – Prices from 185 (for a four day trip within a month). The trip was provided by Turismo Friuli Venezia Giulia