SFor me, Umar cooking means one of two things: either not cooking – when can you eat Greek salad three times a day? – Otherwise, when you do, really go for it. It’s about transporting yourself to the beach with a special plate of fish, celebrating the atmosphere with tropical fruit, and generally packing in as much color as you can.
Coffee-Marinated Pork Chops with White Bean Mash and Kiwi Salsa (pictured top)
Ask your butcher for thick-cut chops – a thick layer of bone-in fat, which crisps up very nicely in the pan. If you want to make ahead, marinate the chops and make the mash a day ahead.
preparation 20 minutes
Marinate 1 hour +
Cook 20 minutes
serves 4, primarily
3 thick-cut pork chops (about 350 grams each), bone-in
1 tablespoon olive oil
For dry marinade
2 teaspoons of freshly ground coffee
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
1 teaspoon of fennel seeds
Half a teaspoon of black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Fine sea salt and flake sea salt
For the white bean mash
2 tins cannellini beans (400 g each), rinse and drain (480 g)
60 ml of sour cream
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 lemons: Grind finely, to obtain 1 teaspoon of juice, and juice, to obtain 1 tablespoon
For the kiwi salsa
4 kiwis (about 320 g), peeled and coarsely ground
5 grams of gingerpeeled and grated
15 grams of corianderroughly cut
1 red chili (10 g), stems removed, finely chopped (if you prefer less heat)
First, marinate the pork. Put all the marinade ingredients in a spice grinder with a teaspoon of salt and blitz. Take a spoonful of this mixture, put it in a small bowl with the zest and a spoonful of flaked salt, crush it with your fingers to make masala salt. Crush the mixture between your fingertips to make masala salt. Rub the remaining mixture evenly over the chops. Leave to marinate at room temperature for at least an hour or, if making ahead, store in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. Make sure to bring the food to room temperature at least 30 minutes before cooking.
Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas. Add all the mash ingredients to a food processor, along with two tablespoons of water and half a teaspoon of salt. Blitz for 30 seconds until almost smooth and transfer to a bowl. Cover and set aside for later.
Sprinkle three quarters of a teaspoon of fine salt over the chops. Place them fat-side down in a large, cold, cast-iron pan with half a teaspoon of oil. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook for two to four minutes until the fat is rendered and crisp.
Add half a teaspoon of oil, turn the chops on their sides and sear for 45 seconds on each side, and repeat one more time (if your pan isn’t big enough, place one side on a tray and sear one at a time). Arrange the chops, skin side down and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook for nine minutes, remove from the oven and set aside to rest for five minutes. Chops should be slightly firm and bounce back when pressed in the center.
For the kiwi salsa, place all ingredients in a medium-sized bowl and mix well.
Place the chops on a cutting board and slice along the bone to separate the meat, then cut the meat into ½ cm strips.
Spoon the bean mash onto each plate and arrange the pork slices on top. Sprinkle generously with spicy salt and serve with salsa on the side.
Spiced sea bream with coriander salsa and ribbon salad
This is a great summer dish, because most of its ingredients can be made ahead. If you like, season and marinate the fish the day before. Serve with lots of rice or rotis.
preparation 25 minutes
Cook 40 minutes
1 ½ tsp gram flour
90 ml of olive oilplus ½ tsp extra
½ tsp carom seeds (ajwain)
2 whole sea bream, Headed, scaled and gutted (about 250g each)
2 lemonsGrind well to get 1 tablespoon, then juice, 3 tablespoons
1 red chiliDiced and finely chopped (10g)
For the salad
1 medium carrotSkin removed and discarded, peeled into ribbons (80 g)
½ cucumberCut into ribbons with a peeler (80 g)
¼ red onionPeeled and very thinly sliced (20g)
2 tbsp Madras curry powder
15 grams of gingerPeeled and roughly chopped
2 garlic clovesPeeled and crushed
40 grams of corianderThe upper leaves and stems are twisted and the lower stems are separated
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 large lime leavesThe stems are removed and the leaves are finely chopped
1 berry tomatoroughly chopped (160 g)
¼ teaspoon caster sugar
sea salt and black pepper
First, make the masala. Place the curry powder, ginger, garlic, coriander stalks, tomato paste, lime leaves, tomatoes, sugar, 60ml water and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small bowl of a blender. Blitz until smooth, using a spatula to scrape down the sides as needed.
Place a large sauté pan over medium heat and toast the chickpea flour for two to three minutes until nutty and golden. Pour into a bowl, clean the pan and return the pan to medium-high heat with two tablespoons of oil. Add the spices and cook, stirring often, for five minutes, until most of the liquid has disappeared. Stir in the carom seeds and 200ml water and cook for a further 10 minutes until thickened and glossy. Mix in gram flour, remove from heat and let cool.
Preheat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/465F/gas. Using a sharp knife, make three to four 3 cm wide cuts from the collar to the tail of the fish. Make sure the cuts are deep – all the way to the bone. Rub a tablespoon of oil and a quarter teaspoon of salt over each fish with your hands. Then, divide the seasoning evenly between the two fish and rub the mixture over the cut, belly and skin to form a thin coating.
Place the fish on a large parchment-lined tray and bake for 20 minutes, until the seasoning is dry and thickened in patches. Remove from the oven and set aside for five minutes.
Meanwhile, make the salsa. In the bowl of a small food processor, place the coriander leaves with the remaining three tablespoons of oil, the lemon wedge, and one-eighth of a teaspoon of salt. Blitz until almost smooth, and place in a bowl. Add the chillies and two teaspoons of lemon juice and set aside.
To make the salad, toss the carrots, cucumber, and onion in a medium bowl with half a teaspoon of oil, the remaining teaspoon of lemon juice, and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt. Mix well and set aside.
Carefully remove the fish to a large serving platter and spoon over the salsa. Serve with ribbon salad on the side.
The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish. Check ratings in your area: UK; Australia; US
Beets and tahini dip with coconut salsa matcha
At their most potent in the summer, sweet and earthy beaters are incredibly versatile. We love them like a dip, whipped up with some heat and some acid. Salsa Matcha is a spicy, oily sauce from Mexico that keeps for up to a week in the refrigerator; If you like, double the recipe and enjoy it with a fried egg.
preparation 15 minutes
Cook 1 hour40 minutes
serves 4, as a starter or part of a meal
500 grams of beetroot (About 3-4) washed and scrubbed well
sea salt and black pepper
50 grams of tahini
50ml pomegranate molasses
1 lemonFinely grind to get half a teaspoon of juice, and juice to get 1 tablespoon
For the salsa matcha
1 ½ teaspoons desiccated coconuttoasted
1 tablespoon sesame seedstoasted
1 tablespoon of pumpkin seedstoasted
Half a teaspoon of cumintoasted
⅛ teaspoon ground spicesLightly toast until fragrant
¼ teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes
¼ tsp Kashmiri chili powder (or sweet paprika)
1 clove of garlicPeeled and crushed
75 ml olive oil
Coconut and coriander for topping
10 grams of raw coconut chips
10 grams of coriander
First, cook the beets. Place them in a large saucepan, cover with plenty of salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat to medium and simmer for 90 minutes until cooked through (knife should go easily).
Drain in a colander and set aside to cool enough to handle and peel. Discard the skin. Coarsely chop the beetroot and place half in the large bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times. Add it to a large mixing bowl. Blitz the remaining beets to a puree for 30 seconds and add the tahini, molasses, lemon juice and ¼ teaspoon salt to the bowl. Mix to combine and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the salsa matcha. Place all ingredients in a medium mixing bowl and season with an eighth teaspoon salt and a good crack of black pepper. Mix well and set aside.
For the topping, combine the lime zest, coconut chips and coriander in a small bowl and set aside.
Spoon the beetroot mixture into a large, lipped dish to make swirls and dips. Drizzle over salsa and serve with coconut chip mixture sprinkled on top.